Ok Christine lets make a start , first those fork tubes...

Decision made
Option 1 Another set of seals - may have worked but not for long.
Option 2 Another set of tubes - they are only show chromed so more trouble later
But a new set could be purchased that are longer 10" over….
No be sensible.
But it would look even better with longer forks Trev...
They would leak again. And its cheaper than new tubes
Yeah but look great…
She handles really good with the 8" over tubes
But we want….
How about putting on a 21" Wheel instead?

Our fork rechroming service includes...
• Full inspection, measurement and recording, we also check straightness before the rechroming process
• Pre-grind on a centreless grinding machine to remove old chrome and any pitting / damage
• Prepare for hard-chrome plating. This will include masking of all internal bushes / valves with special tape and wax
• The forks are then hard chrome electroplated (slightly oversize)
• The forks are then finish ground to an accuracy of 0.005”.
• Inspection, measurement and recording is carried out at all stages of finish grinding
• The forks are linished and polished to produce a high gloss and reduced friction finish which aid the seals bedding in process
• Inspection and recording takes place to maintain quality and continuity of your rechroming

So the 'fork stanchions' were parcelled up and sent Royal Mail 48

 And a new front wheel size investigated, which as usual brings its own problems. 

Running modern radials as rear fit is tight on mudguard. 

Tried a safety Mileage rear in the summer and its 1" in diameter larger.

So it would have to be a radial again or cut all the brackets off the rear and start again.

Would look good with a skinny speed master on the front though...

Parked up at Aldeburgh

a little progress at snails pace...

 My little dremel ripoff arrived and tackled the remaining stainless helicoil that could not be reached with snips. the thread insert is only about 4 threads deep so I was paranoid at pulling it out and kept the neutral switch screwed in till the final cleanup

Ok onward with assembly of shifter drum mechanism 

The manual just tells you to fit the shifter pawls and plate. Well good luck. 

In the end I put a tie around them and tightened it till they were compressed and bingo. 

The pawls are underneath the plate at the bottom in two shafts on springs and impossible to compress and fit at the same time unless you can get the screw undone at the bottom and fit without springs.

Last outing I think 

She needs the forks hard chromed as seals always leaking

Plus a rebore involving new barrels as on limit. All because to much crankcase pressure causing constant leak on crankcase oil seal.

And maybe a leaking gearbox which again I replaced the seal last year plus used one of those supernut.

 Situation Normal All Fucked Up 

Sometimes deciding to do it yourself can be an ordeal...

something for the weekend in the post 

practice helical first on a fucked gearbox cover 

and no problemo

yes I know 

but it worked 

tap in square too 

I had 3 goes at winding in the helical as the depth is only about 8mm, not much thread. I wanted to get the thread starting almost flush with the surface. 

 

The first was half way down the thread before I realised. The second was about over half a thread but I wanted perfection. Should have left well alone, nearly fucked it up again!

The thread inside has to be flush inside so tin snips got rid of most of the helicoil but needs a small grinding dremel type tool, now on order!

Bitch Parking Only

Got out on Wedneday, one kick!

Just when you thought it was safe to surf...

after a couple of hiccups i.e. me deciding that as I had put the shift clutch in facing the wrong way and had to remove the mainshaft I would also replace the mainshaft seal a I'd not fitted the cork 'O' ring that goes behind it. (don't think it has to be fitted these days with the new seals anyway!)

So I fucked that up the second time and tore the lip, - got another and put in in upside down !

- and grown men cry.

So The Box is all shimmed up, new bushes, new bearings and races. 

On to the home run, put the lid mechanism together, all going well until

we get to the neutral switch and strip the thread! 

Not as usual tightening up but undoing to check fit!

So now a 9/16 UNF Helical kit is on order

Situation Normal All Fucked Up

Still lets Look on the Positive side - HaHa 

Could have been on the bike when I decided to to replace the fucked switch which needed replacing anyway - I just did not have one on assembly and that would have meant a few tears.