Thursday, 26 January 2012
try a hotwire to the coil
and after a hesitant start, she ran well and revved too!
(the light switch was incorporated when 'moi' wondered how the fuck, if she did start, I could stop her)
and check the compression
big numbers with pete kicking and me holding the tester (not the screw in type!)
Both 140psi and 120s with throttle open.
Later returned to original switch / wiring and she stalled when under load
letting clutch out to test ride.
Monday, 23 January 2012
Right thats fucking it, take the bloody electronic shit off.
Put the low tech shit on and replace the coil.
Fuck about setting the gap, make sure its the same on both cam lobes, set TDC, then get that little bulb to just light on full advance.
Kick - b-bum bum , kick, b-bum bum bum - five kicks she catches and runs.
ticks over ok but will not rev.and stalls.
Get her started again, load of smoke out of the rear exhaust.
The rear pot is not firing properly and the coil got very warm.
So it seems the problem is magnified when its not single fire ignition.
Plugs have been changed so is it the rear plug lead?
To swap the leads I have to move the coil tomorrow and put on an old set of leads that will then fit.
Sunday, 22 January 2012
back in the day 'Acu-time'
a very relable coil, that I know fucking works,
along with my 'technical advice line' mates sticker
'throw that crap away and put the points back on'
Thursday, 19 January 2012
Rev Counter from back in the day...
Advance timing marks painted on to the pulley wheel and primary
and started second kick cold.
Peter (79'shovel) came round with his timing light and we discovered that the timing was virtually spot on, after kicking and it fired and kicking and kicking till it finally picked up and ran.
Tried to go for a test run, would not pick up and run. when she did, ran badly and stalled after a 100 yards and would not start. Fuck it.
Wednesday, 18 January 2012
In my paranoia after buttoning up the timing chest I thought it may be best to check the pushrods again.
NOTE – If pushrod kit contains four different length pushrods,
the longest pushrod is for the front exhaust, next longest is the
rear exhaust. Of the two shorter pushrods, the longer one is
the front intake, the shortest pushrod is the rear intake.
and I found mine are different in size but are also in the correct position.
So... tomorrow its the timing light...
Tuesday, 17 January 2012
they seek him there
Well, as you can see the cam lines up with the pinion drive gear timing mark and the breather gear lines up too.
Its an Andrews J Grind cam, that I really did not want to take out and cause more unnecessary work.
Why? To check if the cam gear had been aligned properly with the shaft when assembled.
Kevin at Blackdog said this could be the problem when I mentioned that the ignition plate is set extremely to the left and showed me a Screaming Eagle (?) cam that required assembly by pressing the gear onto the shaft, to be aligned carefully using the scribed marks.
Anyhow I have now discovered that Andrews Cams are supplied complete so it must be down to timing dynamically with a timing strobe light.
Although how you do that at 2000rpm without a tach is something to discover next...
Saturday, 14 January 2012
My non adjustable but loose head bearing mot failure
I rang Joe @ Fenland who addressed my paranoid concerns as to whether there is a machined shoulder for the head race(s) to sit on, the one you can see is so 'one' can get a fucking drift in.
The manual shows no spacer washer in original fittings diagram
I fitted a 2.5mm washer at the bottom of the fork stem above the dust cover, but when assembled the top bearing sat proud of the stem.
Back together again
So I put it on top of the upper bearing where I found Joe had already installed a machined spacer that had a small shoulder to it, allowing it to centre on the bearing and used now to align my spacer washer.
And so finally... a Pass
Another very cold early morning and she would not start again.
I had advanced the ignition a smidgeon and she seemed to accelerate a bit better.
Need to put a timing light on her.
Kevin and Tim retested the bitch @ Blackdog and gave a pass!
The tight chain, was the result of the rear axle moving, luckily diagnosed by 'moi' yesterday and adjusted and tightened to 70ftlbs - bastard. (or is it bitch?)
Insured her with ebike on a classic policy, with all the 'modifications' listed, fully comp, 0 no-claims allowance and with breakdown for £140.00 and in bloody record time, on-line!
Kevin reckons that if the ignition plate is positioned extremely to the left, as mine is, its not right and to look at the cam timing. This seems to fit with my probs and is the only bloody thing I haven't checked yet!
Sunday, 8 January 2012
Prepare to fail.
9.15 am. I should have known, she would not start,
ran like a dog and we're nearly late.
Put Christine on the jack before the test and checked the frame headstock play amongst other things.
But I didn't hold the axle to do it, takes two, then there's a lot more leverage on long forks. The guys at Black Dog 'we wouldn't do this if it was a bloody scooter' in Staines, had a go at adjusting it out but there wasn't enough - so a spacer washer under the bottom bearing is required (hopefully).
And I also foolishly tightened the drive chain as it was catching the rear guard - but not that bloody tight, it must have a tight spot. However I loosened it before coming back and it was tight as fuck again when we got home.
It seemed a good idea to get the test done and find out about MOT requisites...
But if I was honest of course I wanted her to pass first time.
Kev who runs 'Black Dog' and rides HD reckons the ignition is retarded.
And I think he's right as it hasn't been set 'dynamically' on a timing gun, according to Dynatek that should not be necessary...
By the way all you lot out there with those little number plates -
check the size (65mm) of the 'legal' mot plate they made for me.
Saturday, 7 January 2012
The front brake is lethal, so trying different pads on the stainless disc.
The pipes sound crap, and she goes like crap - so got these expensive Khromeworks HP+ baffles that seem have a good rep out on the worldwide web.
Finally got some grips for the bars, the cheapest, as I thought I needed 2 pairs because of the internal throttle being 1" OD. But no, it would not turn, so had to wrap tape around the throttle to increase the dia and used just one pair - hmmm, (just as Alex @ Grizzlys suggested, who also had everything in stock).
And loitering in the background a delightful catalogue from W&W, who seem to cater for us oldies and full of more essential goodies.